Hibernation

January 15, 2026

You can practically hear a pin drop around here. From late-February to December, Dan and I are at the farm almost every day, but once we wrap up the last December farm stand, it could be a week or two before we return. Entering the Tin House after the long break is eerie, especially if it’s still decorated for Christmas, so I’ve gotten into the habit of taking down the holiday decorations before the break. Weeks later, when I reenter the Tin House, the darkened building reminds me of a hibernating animal—cold and quiet, full of potential, and unburdened by last year.

Is it true that some animals occasionally eat during hibernation? If so, I can continue with the metaphor. Because the farm stand does open once a month through the winter. Hats off to the hardy customers who shop with us in January! At one memorable farm stand, the temperature never got above 20°. We applaud the commitment, and we get it—for those driven to eat locally and seasonally, there just aren’t many winter options. Dan and I visited several markets last winter, and while we found plenty of cured meat, pickles, and preserves, there was little in the way of vegetables. Growers were either selling the same items we had in storage, or items that looked like they’d been “harvested” from the Hunts Point Market in the Bronx. The experience left us somewhat disappointed in the Long Island food scene, but proud of what Restoration Farm has to offer. Our mid-winter farm stands may not be loud or sexy, but at least they're there.

Last weekend I attended my first NOFA-NY conference since 2019. Talk about a hiatus! I attended workshops on high tunnels, apple and chestnut growing, cover crops, farm labor, and farm policy. The policy workshop, which focused the Good Food NY bill, was compelling because it connected two areas near and dear to my heart—farms and schools. The Good Food bill supports values-based procurement, i.e. giving schools the option of paying more to contract with small and mid-sized farms. Current law, by contrast, requires contracting with the lowest bidder. For organic farms eager tap into new markets, and for school districts eager to provide organic food, this bill could be a game changer. For myself, it sparked mixed feelings. Wasteful government spending is a valid concern (I’m looking at you, Amityville UFSD), which is why the requirement to take the low bid exists. But cheap food carries hidden costs, namely in the form of obesity, chronic disease, and environmental degradation, and these costs should be accounted for in the bidding process. On balance, I found more to like than dislike in the bill, and I hope it gains momentum, despite the governor’s veto last winter. Readers, if you want to help it along, please contact your state representatives.

Yesterday, Dan and I attended the annual Long Island Agriculture Forum, hosted by Cornell Cooperative Extension in Riverhead. The biggest takeaway is that it’s time to plant some teff. What’s teff, you ask? Teff is a cereal grain from Ethiopia that smothers weeds, tolerates drought, and doesn’t require much mowing. It came onto my radar several years ago, when the farm co-hosted a cover crop workshop with Debbie Aller, a soil scientist from Cornell. Teff seed wasn’t widely available then, but it is now, and for good reason—farmers are having success with it! My plan is to seed teff in between single-row fall brassicas like cabbage and broccoli. If all goes well, the teff will save us hours in cultivation this summer, not to mention put additional ground under cover. Stay tuned for updates.

Final note…happy birthday to this newsletter, which has been self-published for 10 years! I launched it back in 2016 without much thought. Sure, I’ll write a newsletter, how much work could it be? Quite a bit, it turns out. Fortunately, I love writing, and I love sharing the farm with others. While certain themes repeat from year to year, the task of writing never gets tedious. At a farm as diverse as ours, there are always new observations to be made and new insights to glean. With so much food for thought, this newsletter could easily go another 10 years.  

So thanks for reading, and I’ll see you at the farm,

Caroline